What Are AHA, BHA, and PHA and Why Your Skin Needs Them
If your skin feels “off”, dull, rough, bumpy, or constantly clogged, the reason is often dead skin buildup plus oil sitting inside pores. Your cleanser and moisturizer might be good, but results slow down when the surface is not clearing properly.
AHA, BHA, and PHA are exfoliating acids. Each one targets a different problem. When you pick the right one, your skin looks smoother, clearer, and more even over time.
AHA. What It Is and Why You Need It
AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acid. AHA works on the skin surface. It loosens dead skin cells so they lift away without scrubbing.
Best for dry skin, dullness, rough texture, uneven tone, and post-acne marks on the surface.
- Smooths rough texture
- Helps brighten dull skin
- Supports a more even-looking skin tone
- Makes skincare absorb better
Product pick for AHA exfoliation:
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner 240 ml
Best when your main concern is rough texture and dullness. Use slowly, two nights per week at first.
BHA. What It Is and Why You Need It
BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acid. The most well-known BHA is salicylic acid. BHA goes inside pores and breaks down oil and buildup. This is why BHA is loved by oily and acne-prone skin.
Best for blackheads, whiteheads, clogged pores, oily T-zone, and frequent breakouts.
- Clears congestion inside pores
- Helps reduce blackheads and whiteheads
- Helps reduce breakouts over time
- Balances excess oil and shine
Gentle BHA toner option:
COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner 150 ml
Good for beginners who want light exfoliation with less risk of dryness.
Salicylic acid cleanser option:
COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser 150 ml
A daily foaming cleanser for oily and acne-prone skin. Helps reduce oil buildup and keep pores cleaner.
PHA. What It Is and Why You Need It
PHA stands for Poly Hydroxy Acid. PHA exfoliates more gently. It is a better fit when your skin gets irritated easily, or when you want smoother skin without redness and tightness.
Best for sensitive skin, reactive skin, and first-time acid users.
- Gentle exfoliation with less irritation
- Helps improve texture slowly
- Supports hydration while exfoliating
- Works well for sensitive skin routines
Balanced acid toner with PHA:
SOME BY MI AHA, BHA, PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner 150 ml
A multi-acid toner for texture, clogged pores, and breakouts. A solid choice for combination skin that gets congested.
Quick Comparison. AHA vs BHA vs PHA
| Type | Best for | Where it works | Feel on skin |
|---|---|---|---|
| AHA | Dullness, rough texture, uneven tone | Surface of skin | Stronger, more noticeable |
| BHA | Clogged pores, blackheads, oily skin, acne | Inside pores | Can feel drying if overused |
| PHA | Sensitive skin, gentle smoothing, barrier-friendly exfoliation | Surface of skin, slower action | Milder, more comfortable |
Best Korean AHA, BHA, and PHA Products and What They Do
1) COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
Shop COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
- Best for beginners starting exfoliation
- Helps smooth skin and reduce early congestion
- Suitable for oily, combination, and mildly sensitive skin
2) COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser
Shop COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser
- Best for oily and acne-prone skin
- Helps clear pores and control excess oil
- Good daily cleanser when breakouts are frequent
3) SOME BY MI AHA, BHA, PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner
Shop SOME BY MI 30 Days Miracle Toner
- Best for textured, acne-prone, and congested skin
- Combines AHA for surface texture and BHA for clogged pores
- Works well two to three nights per week
4) Medicube Zero Pore Pad 2.0
Shop Medicube Zero Pore Pad 2.0
- Best for enlarged pores, rough texture, and excess oil
- Dual-textured pads exfoliate and refine skin surface
- Helps improve pore appearance with regular use
5) SOME BY MI AHA, BHA, PHA 30 Days Miracle Acne Clear Foam
Shop SOME BY MI Miracle Acne Clear Foam
- Best for stubborn congestion and active breakouts
- Deep-cleansing foam suitable for oily skin
- Use once daily if skin feels dry
6) mixsoon Centella Cleansing Foam
Shop mixsoon Centella Cleansing Foam
- Best for sensitive and acne-prone skin
- Cleanses gently without stripping moisture
- Good option for daily morning cleanse
If your skin is reacting or peeling, pause acids for a few days and focus on gentle cleansing plus moisturizer only. Then restart slowly.
How to Use Acids Without Irritation
- Start two nights per week
- Use on clean, dry skin
- Use one exfoliating product at a time
- Follow with a moisturizer
- Apply sunscreen every morning
Common Mistakes That Make Skin Worse
- Using acids every day from day one
- Combining acids with other strong actives in the same routine
- Scrubbing with physical exfoliators on top of acids
- Skipping sunscreen, which increases dark spots and irritation
If you want an easy rule, use AHA for rough, dull skin, BHA for clogged pores, and PHA when your skin is sensitive but needs smoothing.
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